Safety Protection & Dealing with Accidents

Our motorcycle safety and protection guide aims to expand on the points covered in the Questions & Answers and Training tips section.  This guide is not just aimed at learners, but anyone who rides motorcycles.  We have expanded the important themes and hope you will find them an interesting read.
 

Clothing & Equipment	Helmets & Visors	Accident Management
Choosing The Right Clothing Protection from Injury Construction & Fit Clothing Standards Boots & Gloves Compromising (Budget)	Choosing a Crash Helmets Helmet Standards Style Options Comfort & Fit Helmet Care Noise/Hearing Protection	Helping an Injured Motorcyclist Helping Yourself After an Accident

Motorcycle Clothing

When considering the type of clothing to wear on your motorcycle, you need to think about:

Protection From Injury

When people think about how clothing protects them from injury, they tend to think in two areas: impact resistance and abrasion resistance.  These can both be classed as secondary safety (i.e. an accident is unavoidable, so how can I minimise injury).  However, you should also think about primary safety (i.e. what can I do to avoid an accident).  Clothing can play an important part in both primary and secondary safety.

30% (50% at night) of drivers involved in accidents with motorcycles claim they didn't see the bike. 90% of urban motorcycle accidents involving other vehicles are not caused by the motorcyclist.

You are far more likely to be seen if you are wearing bright pink with fluorescent or reflective yellow spots than all black.  Perhaps a bit extreme, but if another road user sees you and thus avoids knocking you off (damaging you and your bike), it'll be worth it.  Bright colours work best and some have reflective and fluorescent properties which make them easier to see at night.  Avoid black and white if possible. If you must wear all black, a high vis reflective vest or Sam Brown (belt and brace), may improve your primary safety, as will riding with your headlights on.

Impact Resistance

If you really must fall off your bike you need some way to minimise injury from the impact which will occur during the time it takes you to hit the road the first time, until the time you stop and get out of the road.  Impact resistance normally comes in the form of armour or padding, which is designed to absorb the impact and spread the load.  You should consider impact protection on all the main contact points on your body, e.g. knees, elbows, shoulders, hips back etc.  Some motorcycle clothing comes with impact protection built in and usually takes the form of hard protection (reduces fractures) and soft protection (reduces bruising) or the two combined, (e.g. Knox Armour about £20 - £50 depending on the set).  If your budget won't stretch to armour, then high density foam is better than nothing.

Abrasion Resistance

Once you've finished bouncing, you need to consider what separates you from the road which will be moving underneath you as you skid along.  Abrasion resistance is often measured by how long something lasts before wearing through or disintegrating.  You can generally conclude that the longer it last the more protection it will give you.  Nature protects your body from the everyday knocks and abrasions, by covering it in a protective flexible layer, a few mm thick - called skin.  Believe it or not it's actually pretty abrasion resistant.  If you took a piece of sand paper and rubbed it on a piece of cloth (e.g. denim or cotton) and timed how long it lasted and compared this with the skin on your finger, you'd find that your finger lasted longer.  Hence cow skin (or leather) is about the best abrasion resistant material for motorcycle clothing.  Motorcycle leathers will normally be thicker than fashion leather, but in any case it should last about 10 times longer than denim or cotton.  It's also pretty good at insulating you against the heat that is generated by friction between you and the road.

If the idea of leather doesn't appeal, there are other materials  Cordura or Kevlar which also have pretty good abrasion resistance, but these can't generally match that of leather.

Construction & Fit

Typically a one piece suit (cost £200 - £2000) will give you better protection than the equivalent jacket and jeans, as it is less likely to separate or roll up.  However, a one piece can be very impractical (try going to the loo), but it's worth noting that if you intend using a race track, it's normally mandated that you wear a one piece or zip together two piece.  Whether you go for a bike jacket & jeans, suit or zip together, you need to check the following:

• Is it reinforced in the high risk areas? - Its common for good bike gear to be double skinned and armoured in the elbows, seat, thighs, knees etc.
• Will the stitching hold out? - On the high end range of gear you will find double and sometimes triple stitching which helps hold the cloth together and reduce the risk of tearing.  As a minimum make sure the joins are not exposed in the abrasion risk areas.  The best leather in the world won't help if it came off 50yds back.
• Snug fit - Make sure it fits snugly, but is still comfortable allowing your blood to circulate.  If you can push the sleeves or legs up to expose the skin, then this will likely occur if you take a tumble.  Zips in the arms and legs help prevent this.
• Ventilation - Even in the cold, you will sweat, so ensure there is adequate ventilation, it's particularly important in the backs of you knees and elbows.  These are relatively low risk areas, so it's common to find ventilation points.
• Protection from the Elements - Yes it does occasionally rain in the UK and there is nothing worse than riding a bike in the wet particularly as the rain seems to channel into your boots and underpants (don't ask me how).  Leather will survive a light shower, but most suits  are not waterproof, so it may be worth investing in a waterproof over suit (Costs approx. £20 - PVC, £50 something tailored, fitted breathable etc.)   An over suit is also an extra layer and will reduce wind chill for cold weather riding.  If it comes with a bum bag or has one built in, you are less likely to leave it at home and get caught out.

Clothing Standards

Motorcycle equipment which claims to offer protection to the rider must comply with the European Commission's Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) legislation (Directive 89/686/EEC). All protective armour must be tested and approved to the European Standard EN1621-1/1997. To gain the CE mark products have to be tested and approved by an independent, Government approved test house.  While the CE mark can't guarantee to prevent all injuries in an accident, it may significantly reduce the severity of your injuries.

Checking the conformity can be pretty tricky, as some clothing will carry the CE mark, but not conform.  For example a set of leathers may be fitted with CE compliant armour, but not be constructed to meet the standard.  Look for the tell tale notice in the label, which normally reads "This garment is not considered to be personal protective equipment as defined in the EC directive etc.".  Generally speaking clothing which meets the standard will offer better protection, but usually at a higher cost.

At the top end of the market some manufacturers have used the Cambridge University Protective Clothing Research Facility.  From this the Cambridge Standard has been developed and has established itself as the leading benchmark for motorcycle clothing protection standards.  Only and handful of clothing manufacturers meet this standard.

Boots & Gloves

It's important not to forget your hands and feet when buying your gear.  You'll need to choose clothing that provides good safety protection and still lets you operate your bike comfortably.  Protection from the elements should also be a consideration.  Again, leather seems to offer the best all-round properties.

Gloves

Look for extra protection on the exposed areas, (e.g. palms, knuckles etc.)  The more money you spend, the better the protection,  some gloves will have built in armour and Kevlar stitching, which will help protect against impact and abrasion, but some armour can make the glove uncomfortable.  It's most important, that the gloves fit properly as well as providing protection.  Gloves tend to be categorised as summer or winter and will be lined/insulated accordingly.  Gloves prices range from about £20 to £200, but if you can't afford that any leather gloves will offer better protection than your bare hand.

Boots

Motorcycle boots can seem expensive, but you can get a reasonable pair for about £50 - £60.  It's important that they fit and feel comfortable on the bike.  You'll need to be able to easily operate the gears and brakes, so if you get the chance to sit on a bike with them, check how they feel on the pegs.  Proper bike boots will give protection on the exposed areas and may have armour to protect the shins, ankles and toes.  If you can't spare the cash for bike boots, then cargo, army or walking boots are a good alternative, but wont give you the control you'd get from a proper bike boot.  If your boots have laces ensure they are tucked in when riding.

Compromising & Budgetting

You may be thinking that this is all well and good, but I am on a budget.  How much should I spend and how can I save money?  A lot of clothing is available second hand and providing it is clean and in good condition, you may save yourself a few quid (NEVER buy a second hand helmet though).  A good rule of thumb is to spend 15 - 20% of the total cost of your bike on clothing.  To help you avoid blowing £400 on a helmet and then riding around in jeans and trainers, we’ve put the following table together, which gives a suggested budget break down. Item Budget +-10% Learner Economy Beginner Ideal Frequent Every Day Helmet 21% £60 - £74 £76 - £92 £113 - £139 £151 - £185 £189 - £231 £227 - £277 Clothing 58% £167 - £204 £209 - £255 £313 - £383 £418 - £510 £522 - £638 £626 - £766 Boots 13% £37 - £46 £47 - £57 £70 - £86 £94 - £114 £117 - £143 £140 - £172 Gloves 8% £23 - £28 £29 - £35 £43 - £53 £58 - £70 £72 - £88 £86 - £106 Total 100% £288 - £352 £360 - £440 £540 - £660 £720 - £880 £900 - £1100 £1080 - £1320

Choosing a Crash Helmet

There are literally hundreds of crash helmets on the market, making it very difficult to decide which to buy.  No matter how tight your budget is, you should always buy new.  A safety helmet works in a similar way to a crumple zone on a car.  It is designed to absorb the impact by crushing or compressing.  Therefore a helmet can only work once.  Modern helmets have tough outer skins typically made from either fibre glass or polycarbonate, which makes it very difficult to determine internal damage.  A shiny outer skin is no guarantee that the impact absorbing polystyrene lining is still effective. Therefore don't risk it.

Helmet Standards

All road legal motorcycle helmets sold in the UK must conform to ECE 22-05 or the older British Standard 6658 (categorised as Type A (blue label) or Type B (green label).    These stickers are normally located on the back of the helmet and will also include a batch identity number.  ECE 22-05 helmets are tested by BSI, and have the BSI Kitemark on the label.  If it doesn't have a sticker or kitemark, don't buy it, it may be an import and will not be legal on British roads.  A recent article suggested that most Traffic Police were not interested in the safety stamp, providing the helmet was a recognisable brand and model.  However, this may change in the future.

The BSI 6658 and ECE 22-05 standards are among the toughest tests for motorcycle helmets in the world.  They are generally accepted to be better than the American DOT and older European CE standards, although they are broadly equivalent to the SNELL M2000 standard.  These standards don't just test new helmet designs, but mandate testing of a %age of all batches manufactured (typically around 1%) with ongoing continuous inspection and recertification.  All this helps to reduce the risk to you in the event of an accident. 

Your helmet may also have an Auto-Cycling Union (ACU) gold or silver badge.  The  ACU is the governing body of motorcycle sport throughout the British Isles, excluding Ireland.  ACU accreditation is different from the BSI standards, however they typically match the standard, with ACU gold going to most BS6658 Type A helmets and Silver to Type Bs.  The price of a type B will range from between about £40 to £100, while a Type A will start at around £70 to over £400. Always try to go for a type A/gold if you can afford it, as it will give better protection and should last longer. You will also be allowed to use it on a track day if you wish.

While it is not a legal requirement to have a visor, if one is fitted it must comply with the BS 4110 ZA or YA test standards.  These standards define impact and scratch resistance as well as tint.  Blacked out visors are not road legal as is any visor not marked with the BS stamp.

Helmet Style

In the UK you will typically have a choice of:

	Full Face - Having an integral chin guard and visor that closes onto the chin bar
	Open Face - Having only a visor or open face without a chin guard.
	Combined - Having a chin bar that can be released, such as those used by the police.

If you have ridden in other countries you may have seen half face or skull cap helmets, but these will not pass the UK safety standards.  It is generally accepted that a full face helmet will offer the most protection as it will protect your nose, jaw, teeth etc. in the event of an accident.  I have heard of people who claim their chin bar and visor showed signs of melting during a face down slide, you probably wouldn't walk away from a similar accident wearing an open face helmet.  Also don't confuse an open face helmet with a pop on chin guard as a full face helmet.  Normally found on motocross helmets, these are there to stop mud & spray and will offer little protection (likely to pop off) in an accident.  A combination helmet such as the Shoei Sychrotec, offers the best of both, but costs quite a bit more. It can also be hard to ride with the face up, as it acts like a parachute.  In any case they are popular with instructors and police, as they don't need to remove their helmet to give instructions.  Although combination helmets are subjected to the same tests as any legal helmet, some are classed as open face helmets and as such not subject to the same tests as a full face helmet.   This is also true for some full face like helmets like those made by Roof.  It's worth checking with your dealer, what classification the helmet has.  Typically these helmets will not carry the ACU gold sticker.  In addition combination helmets can also weigh up to 40% more than the equivalently priced full-face helmet.  Apart from adding to your fatigue on long journeys, this extra weight could increase the risk of neck injuries in an accident.  For example the additional force applied to the neck in rapid deceleration (head on impact to the upper body) could easily be 20kg given a 60mph impact speed.  Other benefits of full face or combination helmets, is that they will normally come with a visor which helps stop flies and grit going in your eyes.

Open face Helmets - The main limit of an open face is its inability to stop the lid from rolling back or forward during a slide. Any chin bar that stays in tact acts as an anchor during a slide keeping it in contact with the ground and not you.  In the event that you slide face down and feet first, it is likely that the open face helmet will roll to the back of your head leaving your head and face in direct contact with the ground.  This may result in some horrific injuries, which could have been avoidable.

Comfort & Fit

Helmet size and fit can vary with manufacturers, but here is a size guide:  XXS = 52 cm,  XS = 53/54 cm,  S = 55/56 cm,  M = 57/58,  cm  L = 59/60 cm,  XL = 61/62 cm,  XXL = 63/64 cm.

As individuals we all have slightly different shaped heads, Obviously its important to choose a helmet that fits properly and is comfortable, so you should ensure you try on different sizes and makes.  You will find that a 58cm (medium) in one model is not exactly the same as another.  When checking comfort and fit you should check you have no uncomfortable pressure points (particularly on your forehead and ears) as these will only get worse during a ride.  Make sure you keep your helmet on for at least a few minutes as this will enable you to decide if it is a good fit or not.  Your helmet will soften and mould to your head slightly, so avoid lending it to someone with a bigger head, as it may not fit you properly when you get it back.

You should not be able to pull the helmet off, or twist it too far round, when the strap is fastened.  Most helmets have a double D ring style strap or seat belt strap, which may be easier to undo.  Both systems offer adequate security when fastened correctly (always give a quick tug on the strap to check it's secure).

Most helmets are fitted with vents to allow air to circulate while riding.  These help to ventilate your head and keep your visor from misting up.  You will normally find vents on the front and sometimes on the back (exhaust) of the helmet to allow air to flow.

Other useful feature to look out for are quick release visors, removable linings and anti fog features.  These are typically available on the higher end range such as the SHOEI X-CEED II.  It's also worth noting the weight, particularly if you intend to use the helmet for racing.  High end helmets usually weight a little less than lower cost helmets without sacrificing strength.  This arguably can help reduce the forces applied when riding and perhaps reduce whiplash.

Helmet Care

Whether you buy a £40 helmet or a £400, helmet you'll need to look after it.  It's not just a cash investment, but something which may save your life.  Most helmets come with care and use instructions, but here are some general tips.

• Cleaning - A soft wet cloth with one or two drops of washing up liquid is ideal for removing every day grime.  Insects seek revenge, by ingraining themselves into the paint work.  Cleaning your helmet and visor after use will help increase it's life and ensure you can see properly.
• Storage - helmet bags are a great idea, but you don't need to spend a lot, a pillow case will do or anything that will protect it from chipping while it is not on your head.
• What happens if I drop it? - Modern helmets are designed to withstand a minor knock, but a 1m high fall (particularly if its got stuff in it - which will increase the weight) could render your helmet useless.  If in doubt contact the manufacturer to arrange an inspection or replace it.

Never sit or stand on your helmet as this may stress or weaken it. Never hang it of your handle bars, foot pegs or wing mirrors as this may damage the impact absorbing lining. Never rest it on your seat as it can easily fall off. You may also find that solvent cleaners, direct sun light, paint or adhesive from stickers may also damage the construction, so check carefully before use.

Seek Good Advice

When you go to the helmet shop don't forget to ask advice from the assistant, as they should have enough experience and knowledge to explain the features and check it fits properly.  You can also ask other bikers who will be able to advise which are good and bad helmets.  Apart from that, it's down to personal choice, but a brightly coloured one wont do you any harm.

Noise & Hearing Protection

You may not realise it, but you run a risk of permanently damaging your hearing every time you ride.  While it's true that bikes aren't particularly noisy (even with a race can) and there are no loud bangs (unless your bike is that badly tuned), wind noise is significant and can cause permanent hearing loss at just 40 mph.  At over 100 mph (who me officer?) you could be risking severe, permanent damage.  If you ride a motorcycle and your hearing sounds muffled afterwards or if your ears ring (Tinnitus), then you are suffering temporary hearing damage which if repeated regularly will become permanent.  The brain will compensate for this temporary loss by tuning out the ringing, so you may not even notice it.  By the time you are aware of the problem, you will have experienced significant permanent damage.  It's also worth remembering that hearing damage is cumulative and builds over time.  So even though you are not aware of the problem now, it might catch up with you in later life.  A Hearing aid is currently the only treatment for permanent hearing loss of this kind.  Tests commissioned by the Home Office have shown that noise levels range from 75 - 90 dB at 35 mph (roughly the same as a chain saw) to 110 - 116 dB at 120 mph on the road, which is well above the level permitted by the Health and Safety Executive for a working environment.

No matter how much you spend on a helmet, it cannot fully protect you.  The configuration of your bike screen height, riding position, your height, aerodynamics etc., all affect the wind noise being produced.  It is true that as we go through life, our hearing will fade, such that we have probably heard all the sounds we are going to hear, by the age of 7, but it would be nice not to be actively contributing to our loss of hearing.  Here are a few things you can do to help.

A well sealing visor and a helmet/neck sleeve can both help reduce wind noise (around 5 to 8 dB at the ear), but ultimately you need ear plugs (cost 20p - £3) to get the best protection.  Forget about isolating the wind noise, just stop it going in your ears.  Once you've got used to riding with plugs, you will find it uncomfortable to ride without them.  Remember though, they may impact your awareness initially as you may not hear other traffic so well.  After a while, you'll find it pretty natural and ear plugs offer the best noise protection.  If you would prefer a set of custom made ear plugs, then contact your local Audiology Unit or ENT clinic at you local hospital.  Many offer a custom ear plug service or can refer you to clinics that provide this service.  The process costs around £25 - £50, but should last and will generally offer better protection than disposable plugs.

Helping an Injured Motorcyclist

We all know that as motorcyclists we risk serious injury when it comes to accidents, so knowing how to help an injured rider could potentially save their life.  The hints here are not a substitute for good first aid knowledge, but tips to remember if you ever discover a road accident.  For more information about first aid take the BBC's First Aid Action interactive course.

You must secure the scene, warn other vehicles, call for help and administer first aid.  Ideally these tasks should be done all at the same time, but if you are on your own, then you will have to deal with them in order.  You must constantly seek others to help as you will be in great danger if you attempt to assist on your own, particularly at night.

Secure the Scene

You must reduce the risk of further accidents.  Ensure that any vehicles involved is no longer running, as it may cause further injury or fire. You should also switch off any cars involved and apply the hand brake. Motorcycles have a kill switch on the right handlebar, identified by a red or orange switch with a crossed out rotating arrow.  Pressing the kill switch will stop the engine.  Alternatively removing the keys should have the same effect (key ignition is sometimes located next to the engine).  You may also want to turn the fuel off.

Warn Other Vehicles

Don't park your bike in a position where it may obstruct emergency vehicles.  Position it so that it can be seen.  Use your lights to illuminate the accident scene.  If you have any high visibility clothing - wear it.  If possible get people to warn other motorists.  They'll need to be at least 100 meters either side of the accident.  Use the ‘slow down’ signal (move your arm up a down in a pressing down motion).

Getting Help

When you dial 999 it is vital that you give precise information.  Think about what service you require.  Tell the operator the location of accident.  Give a road name and town, plus any landmarks which are near.  Clearly describe the incident and don't hang up until the operator has got all the information.  If possible get a passer-by to stay to direct the emergencies services when they arrive.

Helping Casualties

Should I move the casualty to safety?

Should I remove the Helmet?

If the rider is breathing and there is no danger of choking, do not attempt to remove the helmet.  If the rider is unconscious and clearly not breathing, then they will die without your help.  To perform resuscitation effictively you may need to remove the helmet.  However, this can be done with the helmet in place, if it is an open face or syncro/combination helmet  (look for the red quick release tabs on the chin bar).  However,  a  full face helmet with a solid chin bar will need to be removed and requires two people as follows:

1. Undo the chin strap (seperate the double Ds or click the quick release.  Alternatively cut carefully if easier).
2. One person must support the head and neck, while the other gently eases the helmet back until it is free of the chin
3. then move it forward until it clears the base of the skull.
4. It can then be lifted off.

The head and neck must remain supported until a surgical collar can be fitted.  Otherwise serious injury may occur.

Helping Yourself After an Accident

As motorcyclists we are likely to be more aware of the dangers of incorrect actions following an accident than any passer by.  Unless you are fortunate enough to have your accident outside an ambulance station or near a hospital, you will find yourself relying on your own judgement as to the correct action to take.  It is vital that following an accident, you do not complicate your injuries or allow them to go untreated as this can lead to permanent disablement.  For example, the Scaphoid bone, located in your wrist is a common casualty following a fall.  Although not always painful, it must be immobilised quickly to prevent 'bone death', which can lead to surgery and occasionally permanent mobility loss.  So how can you minimise further injury after an accident?
 
 

	Quickly assess the scene - Are you in immediate danger from other vehicles?  If the traffic has stopped and is aware of your accident, don't be too quick to pick yourself up.  Take a moment to ensure that everything at least looks normal.  Look for any damage to clothing or obvious injuries (blood, twisted limbs etc.).  Only then slowly pick yourself up, if you experience any pain at all stop and remain on the ground.  Remember that your body will be pumping full of endorphins and adrenalin, which will block a lot of pain.  Alternatively, if your accident has not brought traffic to a standstill, you need to get out of danger as soon as possible.
	Clearing the scene - Most people's natural reaction is to move themselves and their belongings from the road, so they can look at the damage and mentally work out the cost.  However, just because you don't feel pain and can walk, doesn't mean that you haven't broken anything.  Seek the help of other motorists or passers-by, a 200kg bike can be lifted easily with 2 or more people.  If you suspect that someone else caused the accident, don't be afraid to ask if anyone saw what happened and to leave his or her details.
	Seek medical attention - It is likely that someone will have called an ambulance, don't forego treatment, even if you feel fine.  The medic will at least give you a visual check, test for concussion and take your blood pressure.  If they think you need hospital treatment then it's best not to argue.  Apart from damaging any personal injury claim that you may have, your refusal of treatment could be fatal.  If you are not attended to at the scene, you should visit your GP or local Accident and Emergency for a check-up.
	At home - Your helmet, leathers and armour will have spread the load, but you will still suffer whiplash and other impact injuries.  Monitor you injuries and do not hesitate to seek follow up attention if you suspect anything is wrong.

Finally, learn from any mistakes you made, to reduce the risk of the accident happening again and don't forget to replace any damaged safety gear.

This information on this site should be taken as a guide only and is open to interpretation.  You should consult one of our qualified instructors for more information about any of the advice given.  RAE cannot accept responsibility or liability for accuracy, clarity or your interpretation of this information.